Saturday, April 9, 2005 9:15 PM
Another lovely day. I slept well last night for one thing and I didn't have to get up early for another! It was nice to have a leisurely morning - and a long shower. Madame has a very nice shower and it was pleasant to enjoy it this morning and not feel like I have to rush so much!
Someone must either be a fool or have just gotten married outside my window - there are a LOT of horns honking - now a moment of silence - now they have all started up again - maybe it is a winning soccer match...who knows - I'm just glad it isn't 2:00 am!
After breakfast, I walked up to the bus station and met the rest of the group and we went on the bus to St. Paul de Vence. It took about an hour to get there and it was very pretty - along the Prominade des Anglais and then past the airport and through some little villages - as we climbed higher. I could see out the window over the hills and valleys -it was similar to the Povence we had seen 2 years ago, but more built up - instead of huge valleys with a few "mas" here and there - it was very crowded with houses. As we got higher, we could see St. Paul de Vence in the distance - there are other hills that have houses on them, but this one looks old - it has a big wall around it to fortify it and then all the building is inside the wall. There is other building of course, outside the wall, but it is the only walled village that I could see in the area.

We got there around noon and Caroline, our guide, took us on a brief tour - we walked uphill past the hard, bare area in front of the local café where every afternoon, the men (I've never seen any women, but Madame tells me there are some who play) play pantanque. We walked inside the walls and it was very pretty - lots of flowers, very narrow streets - and the day was beautiful.

The weather forecast was for cold and rain - but it turned out to be very warm and sunny - with a brilliant blue
Caroline took us around the village, up to the top where we could see for miles.

I could see the Mediterranean sea and the valley around us, which was dotted with tres cher maisons - some of which had several swimming pools. In the cote d'Azur, swimming pools are not covered like they are in Florida, so it was very easy to see them shimmering in the sun. Also from the top, we could see the cemetery. We walked down and into it - and saw the grave of Marc Chagall. The tombs were interesting - above ground and lots of flowers, both real and also ceramic. It was a beautiful view.


We also saw the fountain of St. Paul de Vence.

It was very interesting because the fountain part had water in it one could drink and then behind it, was another set of fountains, lower down to the ground with non-potable water which flowed into a big basin. Caroline explained that in the old days, the ladies of the village would gather there to do their washing - the sides of the big basin were sloped so they could put their clothes there and then beat them with rocks. It was a wonderful place and I took lots of pictures of the fountain and the basins.

The town is typical - like other hill towns we have seen - narrow maze-like streets, but because this one is famous, the streets are lined with art galleries and tourist stuff - similar to the Cours Seyala, but more expensive. Soaps we looked at yesterday, were twice as expensive in St. Paul de Vence! We found a rooftop restaurant in the sun to have lunch - unfortunately, the food wasn't great - I had charcuterie -which was ok - but it was so hot, it was hard to enjoy it - I (and everyone else) had dressed for cold and rain, but it was hot and sunny - so we sweltered in the sun - many tables, including ours, didn't have an umbrella, and the Perrier was not cold...but it was pleasant to sit in the sun and look out at the rooftops. After lunch, I discovered that the rooftop restaurant was right on top of the fountain. Suzanne and I went into a gallery because I wanted to find a painting or print that would remind me of this part of France - and very near the restaurant we found a gallery that had a lovely print on the door of the fountain. We went in and the artist who did the print was there, so we talked to him for a while and we both bought one (o10 ) and he signed each one for us - it was very pleasant!
We wandered around the town and I took tons of picture - I really like my digital camera - its is so liberating to be able to take zillions of pictures and then if they don't look good, just throw them away - until it was time to meet to go to the Maeght Museum.
The Maeght Museau - St. Paul de Vence
The walk there was quite steep (on the road) and then we took what was I think a shortcut straight up a rocky hill. The museum was incredible. I enjoyed it more than any other museum I have been to in Europe. The location was magnificent and the buildings and galleries had been placed with such care to emphasize the art - I have to take Sarah there! It was so cool to see - ** see ** sculpture and drawings I had studied in school - and especially in such a lovely setting. There were not many people there, which was great - and they let you take pictures which was amazing! It was full of wonderful, funny, thoughtful pieces and as I walked through, I could see how the artists, Miro, Braque, Matisse, Leger, Calder, Giacometti and others had influenced each other. The sculpture outside was unbelievable - there were fountains and gardens and incredible views - it was just amazing. I can't believe it isn't more well known - what a jewel. Here are some images from the museum and then the story continues...

"Self Portrait"





Unfortunately, we only had an hour at the museum - I told Caroline that in the future, I would suggest 1 hour in St. Paul de Vence and 3 hours at the museum, but there were clearly many in our party who weren't that impressed with it. Perhaps a choice - shopping or art???
After the museum, we hiked back down the hill to the bus - which was late - and extremely crowded. I headed for the only free seat I could find - which was in a group of 4 - 2 headed forward and 2 headed backward. I tried to get in to the one going backward, and it turned out that not only were the 3 other seats occupied but there was a huge dog on the floor taking up all available floor space. I pushed in anyway, because I was tired, but it was a very tight space - and the ride home was very uncomfortable - and hot - there was no air in the bus and the back really shook - the closer we got to Nice, the more I felt I had mal de mer...one good thing was that we went into the airport - which gave me a chance to check it out for next Saturday when I pick up Sarah. I think (I hope) it should be fairly easy - it isn't that big - there is parking close by - and there are only 3 arrival locations - all close together. So, if I can figure out the traffic signs and avoid the construction, I should be ok - plus I also have 45 minutes from the time I rent the car until her plane arrives. I think I should get to the car rental place (which is the train station) early - just in case.
When we got back to the bus station, Suzanne suggested a coffee, but I was still feeling mal de mer, so I headed back home - it was almost 7:00 and I was pretty tired. The streets were filled with people - the young people on the tour today (and others as well from the school) were meeting tonight at 11:30 to go out partying - 11:30. Hummmm. It is now 9:53 - I would never make it!
When I got home, Madame had another nice dinner - we started with crab and tomato salad with mayonnaise, followed by Crème de la Reine - a puff pastry filled with a cream, mushroom, meat filling with a Rosé from Provence. Then, we had cheese and fruit - while we watched the news about the clean up of Rome after the Pope's funeral and the wedding of Charles and Camilla - the English sure do have great hat makers!
Tomorrow, I must do my laundry - there is no laundry in the building and Madame's washing machine is broken, so I have to go to a laundromat by the Post Office. After that, I'll walk to the Prominade des Anglais, where there is an Internet Café that gives 1 hour free wireless if you buy lunch. Then I can upload all this - I hope it's nice and sunny! The Mistral is blowing like crazy - the awnings are flapping outside - evidently, this is not normal - but it is expected to continue for a while. The weather forecasts have special part devoted to le vent - color coded for each particular area!
And so, a fond farewell to St. Paul de Vence...
3:55:56 PM | |